Lubay x Leap: Designing Bags with Next-Gen Materials

Based in Belgium and founded by Soho Francotte, Lubay is redefining luxury with purpose, crafting high-quality bags using next-gen materials. This thoughtful approach to materials is shaping a new path for conscious design.

We recently caught up with Soho to talk about Lubay’s latest collection featuring Leap®, to explore Lubay's vision, its shift to next-gen materials and what it truly means to create fashion pieces with a lower impact. 

So, let’s dive right in…
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Soho, what inspired you to start Lubay? Can you share the story behind the brand and what drives you every day to create these unique bags?

''I founded Lubay out of a personal frustration: it was incredibly difficult to find handbags that weren’t made from leather, were ethically produced, and were crafted as locally as possible. In 2021, during the global pause of the pandemic, I took the opportunity to teach myself garment pattern-making and sewing. With no clear timeline for resuming my work as a musician, I realized this might be the perfect moment to launch my own handbag brand—one that I could fully control, from design to production, right here in Belgium. My vision was to create unique yet highly functional designs, with an emphasis on timeless elegance rather than seasonal trends. Every decision, from material sourcing to production, is intentional and carefully considered. From the very beginning, there was no question: Lubay would never use leather.''

How did you first come across Leap® and what made you think “This would be an amazing material choice for Lubay?

''I closely follow developments in next-generation materials, and in recent years, the advancements—especially within the European Union—have been remarkable. When I discovered Leap®, I was immediately drawn to its exceptional bio-based content (91%!). This is often a point of debate among critics of alternative materials, but Leap® clearly demonstrates how quickly these innovations are evolving and improving. Additionally, sourcing materials ethically and as locally as possible is fundamental to Lubay, and Leap® aligns perfectly with that philosophy.''

What surprised you most about Leap®?

''The combination of strength and finesse. It’s incredibly sturdy while maintaining a beautiful, refined texture. And the colors, absolutely stunning!''

Leather has long been a key material in fashion design. As you introduce alternatives like Leap®, how do you see them complementing or evolving alongside traditional materials?

''I believe materials like Leap® will become increasingly prominent in fashion. Many of our customers aren’t necessarily vegan or vegetarian, yet they actively seek alternatives to leather because they are aware of the environmental and ethical issues associated with traditional tanning. Some simply want to explore something beyond conventional materials. Personally, I think clinging to traditional materials for the sake of heritage needs to be questioned. Nothing in life is static—progress is inevitable, and when we have clear evidence that certain materials cause harm to people, animals, and the environment, questioning and evolving our choices is the only constructive path forward. Just because something has been done for centuries doesn’t mean it should continue unchanged.''

Cost is a crucial factor in material selection. So, from a cost perspective, what does choosing next-gen materials over traditional leather mean for manufacturers like yourself or conscious consumers?

''I can’t compare costs directly since I’ve never worked with leather, but I firmly believe that a material’s price should reflect the research and development behind it, the quality of its components, the time required for production, and the real costs of manufacturing in a way that is aligned with its place of origin. Quality and ethical production come at a fair cost.''

Many brands hesitate when it comes to alternative materials. What tipped the scales in Leap® 's favor for Lubay?

''The high bio-based content, its European production, and—quite simply—the material itself. It checked all the right boxes for us.''

Did working with Leap® lead to any unexpected shifts or innovations in the design process?

''It behaves similarly to other next-gen materials, but what sets it apart is its structure, durability, and overall feel. It has a unique quality while being visually stunning. I love working with curves in my designs, and I was curious about how Leap® would adapt. The results? Beautifully seamless.''

Leap® is crafted from apple waste, which naturally sparks curiosity about its durability. How does it hold up in terms of performance and workability?

''It’s a pleasure to work with—truly. You can feel its strength; it’s built to last.''

What advice would you give to brands excited to explore our Leap®? What key insights can help them confidently take their first step into the world of alternative materials?

''My advice? Just take the Leap! There’s nothing to lose by exploring new materials—only opportunities to gain. Also, I work alone, meaning from sourcing to designing, crafting, photography, sales, website management, and everything in between. And I experienced the essence of true partnership for the first time while working with the Beyond Leather team. This was unexpected. I'm used to working with other manufacturers, but here, things are quite different. Leap® is not just a material you purchase; it's much more than that. The human connection is crucial. Opting for a new material is not easy; it can be stressful. But with Beyond Leather, you never feel alone in this adventure.''

Want to see what Leap® can do for your designs? Discover Leap for bags and accessories or request a free sample.